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There is an old expression we have all heard
from our elders that holds true from generation to
generation: to know where you are going, you must remember
where you have been. There is no place on Guam that is more
important to us historically than this place you see
pictured here, the Plaza de Espana. It has been around in
various stages of repair, and disrepair, for over two and a
half centuries. It has changed names as well. It has been
known as Plaza de Magallanes and Plaza de Magalahes. It is
now called Plaza de Espana.
During its heyday before World War II, we
simply called it Y Plaza or Y Plaza gi ja Hagatna. History
tells us that our Chamorro ancestors settled in Agana and it
was a focal point of their activities. We have learned that
Chief
Quipuha himself gave
land to the Catholic church upon which the Dulce
Nombre de Maria Cathedral now stands right next to the Plaza. Much of
the original Plaza and the surrounding structures are now
gone but what remains are reminders of classic Spanish
architecture of the 17 and 1800's.
This painting of a church yard with a water
fountain and flowers looks very familiar to those of my
generation who recall visiting the Plaza during recess from
our schools which were around it. This painting, however, is
not of the Plaza de Espana in Agana but of a Plaza in
Mexico. It also reminds us of the California missions. There
was a time when the center of activity on Guam was the Plaza
for change of command ceremonies, dancing, Mass, calisthenics, drill
competitions,
processions, promotions, defensive
positions,
surrender, executions by the occupying forces, victory
celebrations, protests, and gubernatorial inaugurals. The Plaza has been the scene of
triumph and tragedy, joy and sadness. For those of my
generation, the lush bougainvilleas, the bright
flame trees and the
exquisite cadena (cadena de amor) did not completely
camouflage the walls behind the arches on one side of the
Plaza. Within these walls was a grade school before WW II from
which vibrant voices of the young could be heard. They were
not unlike those of youngsters in other societies except for
the perfect English that they spoke. We were of the same
ages but we hardly saw them for the walls either kept them
from us, or us from them. They enclosed the American
School in the
Governor's Palace Complex and we were not allowed to go
there.
This is said with candor, but without rancor,
as a reminder of where we have been. The walls are still
standing but they are now just stark reminders of where we
have been. It is said that when French soldiers pass a
famous vineyard, they salute it. When I pass these walls as
a Chamorro manamko, a certain smile appears on my aging
face. The Plaza, once the busiest place in Agana is
now deadly silent with inactivity but it is Living History
at its fullest.
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